Photo: Henryhill125
I used to live around the corner of the Zeedijk, the main street of Amsterdam’s Chinatown. From the window of our tiny apartment I could see the St Nicolaas church and the bridge that tourists pass while getting into town. Nine out of ten made a photo from that bridge, and the recurrent flashes of reflecting blue lit up our room and reminded us of the wealth we could have made if we had possession of those image rights.
Photo: Bartvanpoll
During daytime, life in Chinatown is just as you’d find in a sleepy little provincial town - Chinese women rushing down the streets, muttering incomprehensible phrases, old ladies looking out of their windows, silence and boredom everywhere.
The district is a puzzling mix - authentic restaurants next to crap ones, next to hairdressers, shops, eastern massage, and so on – all existing harmoniously side by side. On the Zeedijk (literally: dike against the sea) the Thai snack bar Bird has achieved a sort of cult status. The place serves delicious food and is a good option when you don’t have time to cook, but it’s extremely crowded and after years of ongoing success they are no longer so kind and attentive.
Therefore I was really happy that the former cook of the Bird started a place for herself called O-Cha. The Thai ladies at O-Cha seem to have such fun while working that their chatting and laughing is more than contagious. Instead of the nerve killing experience at Bird, a quick bite at O-Cha or something to go will guarantee I leave the place in a much better mood.
Another institution on Zeedijk is the Chinese restaurant Nam Kee. This place has served as the décor of a novel, a film, and (I can’t help it), my own imagination as well. Every time I pass Nam Kee and have a look at the exposed animals hanging in their windows my imagination runs high speed, but since I am vegetarian I bet you don’t want to know more...
Although I often can’t get rid of the feeling that Chinatown is all fake or artificial, I know it’s not that simple. For instance, the Temple may look at first glance like a dummy from an advertisement, but it is indeed a place for religious contemplation.
Things are less complicated at Wah Nam Hong - this Chinese supermarket on Geldersekade 90-92 attracts me like Pandora’s Box without the bad surprises. My last treasure: perfect scarlet sachets decorated with golden Chinese signs.
Go further: Read John Rambow's guide to his favourite places in New York's Chinatown.