Photo: Genial23
Berlin's position as Germany's capital has been the source of much difficulty down the decades, as every new regime attempts to remake the city after its own ideological design. The 19th century Kaisers with their proliferating palaces and Hitler & Speer's grotesque 'Germania' - a megalomaniacal reimagining of Berlin in the style of fascist monumentalism, are but two examples of the compulsion which seizes those who take up the reins of power. After WWII Berlin saw another episode of this regime rebuilding when the East German authorities, following cues from Moscow, decided to clear away acres of war-ruined 19th century housing and build a tribute to their new dictatorship of the proletariat.
To be fair, the construction was necessary measure to provide housing for Berlin’s bombed out citizens and similar projects were undertaken in the city’s western sectors. But it was here, on the newly christened Stalinallee (renamed Karl-Marx-Allee in 1961), that East Germany’s propaganda machinery took full advantage of the reconstruction in an attempt to demonstrate the superiority of the young socialist regime.
Photo: Doratagold
Beginning at Strausberger Platz, home to a fine bust of Karl Marx, down to the twin domes of Frankfurter Tor and back, I walked the wide boulevard this past weekend, taken with the fanciful eight storey 'worker’s palaces', shining examples of Stalinist socialist classicism.
KINO INTERNATIONAL
The avenue was East Germany’s monumental main street, witness to each year’s May Day parade, and site iconic socialist architecture, such as the Kino International. East Berlin’s premiere cinema, opened in 1963, it has now been beautifully restored and each February takes part in the Berlinale film festival.
Kino International Karl Marx Allee 33, Berlin
KOSMOS
A few hundred meters along the boulevard another icon of socialist cinema architecture, the Kosmos, was also built during this period. While the cinema itself was removed during renovations, the Kosmos is still home to a diskothek and provides sleekly styled rooms for conferences and private parties.
Kosmos Karl Marx Allee 131, Berlin
CAFÉ SIBYLLE
Stopping by Café Sibylle, a favorite local coffee spot since the 50’s, I downed a quick pick me up and examined their exhibition detailing the history of the construction and renovation of Karl-Marx-Allee. The collection of artifacts and photographs provided the historical background for my afternoon’s promenade, and the café also rents out audio tours and offers souvenirs, such as a replica of Stalin’s ear, the original of which was salvaged from the midnight demolition in 1961 of a sculpture of the Soviet leader.
Café Sibylle Karl Marx Allee 131, Berlin
CLOSE TO HIPSTERVILLE
Photo: Photocapy
Reaching the eastern end of the avenue at Frankfurter Tor I turned to make my way back, keeping an eye out for the newest residents of the monumental apartment blocks. Recent renovations have brought the area renewed attention, and once neglected shopfronts along the avenue are finding new owners as trendy restaurants and galleries move in, taking advantage of their proximity to hip Friedrichshain and multi-kulti Kreuzberg.
WAGNER AND PARTNER
Being an enthusiast of modern photography I stopped by Wagner & Partner to examine a collection of contemporary landscapes. The gallery’s minimalist interior provided the perfect backdrop to the prints’ lush colors and deep perspectives and I was given an impromptu tour by the gallery’s friendly manager.
Wagner and Partner Karl Marx Allee 87, Berlin
EHRENBURG
My head swimming from an afternoon of workers’ paradises, Stalinist utopias, and architectural fantasies I paused as I made my way back up the boulevard to grab a quick lunch at Ehrenburg. This cozy little espresso bar sits on a particularly leafy corner and proved the perfect spot to rest my feet, take the edge off of my appetite and observe my fellow Sunday strollers. And as I tucked into a delicious ciabatta sandwich I began to suspect those socialist city planners might have been on to something after all.
Ehrenburg Karl Marx Allee 103, Berlin
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